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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	The Watchtower	(General)	[ Watchtower Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Watchtower new bolted line. 5-Mar-2014 At 1:20:04 PM krumpit

Message

First...disclaimer; I do enjoy sport climbing
Just as I enjoy trad, bouldering, aid and enything else climbing related...all have there place.
I also agree that sometimes, routes are unprotectable with trad and if they are worth it, then may need some bolts...when bolts get old, sometimes they need replacing too...

But seriously, these new routes up near jugular are bullshit Neil....not only that, but they aren't even new....its just indescriminate bolting of irrelevant lines.
All the rock below the Jugular platform is chossy, and while I have taken groups up there countless times for work, they are not worthy of a name nor a bolt.
The 16 has been showering rock every since it was bolted, the 17 LHV of Jugular has been lead by almost every person who has bailed on JP in the past (i have seen at least 6 people lead that line using JP bolts as much as possible) and meanders up a mossy and vegetated choss fest...
But really whats this all for....this use of bolts as the default position is not only making climbers look like environmental vandals, but also just puting up lines for the sake of it....
As I said at the top, I like sport, but it has its place...and that is protecting the truelly unprotectable....and then you have to decide is the climb truelly worth taking something away for....
I dont agree with the way this is currently taking place in the Gramps, and I am not the only one....