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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Ripper Zipper 2-Jan-2013 At 5:12:05 PM jrc

Message

well i remember from years ago one of my favourite routes on Aunty Jack wall was Zipper, a bit harder than AJ but a lot better protected with the 2 bolts at the bottom, the bombproof cam (s) in the horizontal and then various solid wires from there to the top,

I had a dose of bronchitis over the last few days so when my partner of many years ago, Matt D sugestted it on Saturday i declined but i got my son Richard to go and give it a shot with him; giving Rich a few hints abbout the gear. When he got back he told me he placed one nut, didn't need any more since there were 5 (yes five) bolts on it now. I thought he must have been on the wrong climb so yesterday, after it cooled off a bit, i went for a wander down to Mt York & i have to say i could scarcely believe what i saw. There are indeed 5 bolts on Zipper , the new 3 each within a metre of good cam or nut pro. They are not even far enough to the side of the route to be a'new route'. I have to say i am a fairly cowardly leader - i even used to put a small wire after the 2nd bolt on the way to the horizontal crack - but 3 new bolts is ridiculous.

Anyway, I dare say its still a fine route if it does lack a bit of the earlier need to think about your gear. At least Aunty Jack is still bolt free; Ross can rest in peace.