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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	Wilkinson's Lookout Environs	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

ozymandias free eliminate 18-Feb-2004 At 1:39:15 PM Onsight

Message

Ozy direct is definitely THE route to do... AndyCJ has got it right w the grades as far as I can remember… I think Steve may have originally thought pitch two to be 29, but may have later changed his mind, hence the confusion there. Anyway, it’s a desperate pitch, smearing, bridging, and take lots of small RP’s…

You might have a good idea there though Butters, if you aid that pitch, and the crux section of the sixth pitch (just the bit up to the roof – the roof is 25 and corner above 24) then you’ve got yourself an ultra classic, up to grade 26, but a lot around 24 or so…

There are more photos in the Buffalo gallery on my site at:
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/aust/vic/buffalo/main.htm
and also in the book Rock Climbing in Aust.

Mikl might be right, it might not be that long (those things used to feel soo big). But I reckon ground up would be the most fun.

Have fun! It’s an awesome route. If it were in Europe or US, then they’d be queuing to try and free it…

Simon Carter