The Initiation (18 - 4 pitches) is a great day out.
If you are at This is Our Land do the arete left of it (Instant Justice??). It is a really interesting climb up
spaced bits of dyke stuck to smooth granite. The
grade is height dependent so would be 21 for you. I agree on all the others but suggest rapping in to do
the top pitch only of Edge of Pleasure.
There have been some good articles in Rock magazine on Buffalo.
If you are interested in an easy aid route that can be completed in a day do Defender of the Faith. You
can abseil down the line - there is a good description in the Buffalo update on the VCC web site. Leave a
rope on the top abseil for jummaring up at the end. The other pitches require lots of friends and a long arm
to clip the bolt on the short traverse on pitch 1.