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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Fantini's Offwidth 2-Dec-2011 At 11:14:23 AM crazyjohn

Message

On 30/11/2011 Doug Bruce wrote:
>On 30/11/2011 crazyjohn wrote:
>>
>>Your sarcasm is duly noted. However,, noone is stopping you from taking
>>them out but yourself. All you need do is climb the route without clipping
>>them and then feel free to take them out.
>
>No sarcasm intended CJ, just saying it the way I see it. The rappel bolts
>above the Flutes didn't impinge on the aesthetics or difficulty of any
>of the routes; the placing of in situ protection does - two tubes left
>in a route alters the nature of the climb for future ascensionists. Some
>consistency would be good; reinstatement of the rappel anchors would be
>better; a series of anchors so that the vegetation was protected right
>along the bottom of the crag would be best.
>
>Back on the theme of the tubes, what would you - or Gerry - think if someone
>left a couple of tube chocks in Barbe di Vendetta? They're not as bad as
>a couple of bolts, but not good. I suspect they'd disappear pretty quickly.
>The grade should be irrelevant. I'm glad to hear that one of the tubes
>is gone from Pipeline. It would be great if someone plucked the other out.
>
>As for "noone (sic) is stopping you from taking them out but yourself",
>Pipeline is probably too hard for me, but maybe one day. Although I live
>in hope (delusional maybe), I think leading Defender was the apex for me
>on that crag; despite being notionally the same grade, Defender is much
>easier than Pipeline I suspect. Also, some years have passed since I got
>up Defender.
>Cheers
>Doug

Look, if you want to leave gear, go ahead! No one is stopping you. If you want to remove fixed gear, same story. If gear gets stuck or left behind, the next team can do whatever the F they want with it. DUH! Has this changed at any time in history? I assume you are straining for some kind of link between gear left behind on a ground up ascent and bolts otherwise your post makes little sense. Well there is little in common. Arapiles with its many fixed pins and wires is very different than the Ben. There are very few climbs in the Ben with any fixed gear. These are the exception that prove the rule.Like it or not, even at araps where fixed wires are the norm, its accepted that they can and will be bootied and nothing is really "fixed". But this is all just stating the bloody obvious!