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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

New anchors and re-bolting at Lower Baldy 22-Mar-2011 At 9:50:22 AM mabsydney

Message

Microcosm has rings on it and Continuum has some fixed hangers, what's the difference?

I re-bolted Righteous Brothers last year and used carrots. I've since decided carrots have had their day so I used rings. I spoke to Giles and he was happy with the decision.

The fact is if you place a bolt, you drill a hole in the rock regardless. I will concede, there is an argument that it makes the route easier as you don't have to fiddle a hanger on - but it's still a bolt and it (should be) bomber. If your ethics are so pure - you should do the route with no bolts and give it E10.

There are lots of classic routes in the Wolgan and many of them have old, decaying unsafe gear on them. I would actually like to see a few more people up at Lower Baldy, it's a great place and routes like Slider and Woden are classic trad lines that really need some traffic as they are getting dirty. It isn't going to turn into Centenial glen, most people still can't be bothered to go out there - the Wolgan will remain a quiet beautiful place to climb for many years.

If you don't like it, tough sh*t - go and climb some choss pile further down the valley.