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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Cracks at Araps 19-May-2010 At 10:52:47 AM cruze

Message

On 19/05/2010 jrc wrote:
>Exception to disprove ES' rule:
>Iron Mandible = 18 = well protected reasonably sustained jamming.
>
>I remember carrying my partner out after he fell testing his 4th piece
>of gear on IM, pulled 2 more out & hit the deck. Broken cheekbone (ugly
>bloodied eye) & big gash in the hand.
>
>Just take care that because its a crack you don't have to stop thinking
> how to place good gear & actually doing so.

Interesting story. I lead the climb feeling comfortable with seated cam placements - ie not flaring or completely parallel. Did your friend lead it on passive gear? I seem to remember that the start was a little bouldery with a highish first piece. Then froggied a #3 or #3.5 up the final wider section.