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Crag & Route Beta

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Kaputar query again 7-Apr-2010 At 9:22:06 PM vwills

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Ah yes, the old thread hijack is alive and well.
Kaputar was good. The odd spot of rain but it didnt stop us climbing. Lots of campers but to my knowledge there was only one other party climbing and we never met them- only noted a pair of shoes left behind at Euglah Rocks between day 1 and day 3. They are still there.

Drove from Newcastle Thursday night in Ryans 21 year old Laser. Left at 330pm and arrived about 11pm. Set up camp at the lower camp site as the extra 6km up the hill seemed too far as every shadow threatened to jump out in frontof us. Ryan has been working near Narrabri so I got a running commentary along the NE Hwy of all the best eating joints. Ate Indian in Gunnedah. I did warn Ryan this was not a good idea.... I find Indian food and climbing do not mix.

Friday: Left a map for our other 2 climbers at the car and headed to Euglah Rocks. Orientation is tricky as the Rock guide is a bit deficient and we didnt have the old Lattanzio guide which at least gives some aerial topo. But I had done Yummikins and Burning Spear a few years ago so eventually chose a corner crack in the shade at the west end of the terrace- The Fantastic Four 17, then did Revival 18 which was really good, a route on bolts to its right through a roof 22/23?, a route between the FF and Revival which has had a direct start bolted and then leads into a lovely finger crack ?23 and a 17 next to Isis. Our friends had finally arrived and we were fully in the sun so we headed around to the east face. They had a miserable time on low graded choss. I did warn them that the 3 star 14, Insidious, was pretty crappy which had been my impression from the previous visit. I did Devilled sloth which while only 17 seemed harder than any routes that day. The last time we were here friends had backed off this due to scant protection on the low tricky slab. The number 2 RPs were out but the rock isnt Arapilean! There is also a large tree growing out at half height leading to interesting overhanging moves to pass it. A good one to end the day on! Besides, the sun had set.

Saturday: went to the Governor. Did Clandestiny, then rapped back to the belay point and did Cryptic which now has 2 BRs. Thats proabably why it seemed easier than 18. Then did Iconoclast in 2 pitches. I was expecting some nasty jamming, but it was lovely climbing and I also scored some booty. Unfortunately the friends, after doing Patient Scruff which is an OK 16, went west to try some low grade choss route and bailed after pulling blocks off. THey clearly hadnt learnt from Day 1 but then did Clandestiny for some redemption. Set up a slack line back in camp. I am very crap at this.

Sunday: Went back to Euglah and did Clampdown, 3 star 20, Best Foot Forward, 3 star 19, and tried the route on ring bolts which had me stumped so I came down and did the route on bolts into a crack to the left of it which was about a 22. Ryan was feeling better leading and did a good job on Airs and Graces 18 which was a cool overhang to arete then crack, and Bridge over troubled water17. Clampdown is a face route up a seam with intermittent protection. It seems there was an old bolt on it which is now a rusty hole in the 8 m runout section. Fortunately the arete to its left has been bolted and it was possible to extend runners into that without getting off line. It was a little hot, but lower off anchors meant belay from the ground was possible for a lot of the routes rather than baking at the top of the climb.

Monday: Off to Lindsey Rocks. Did 2 routes on large hangers, aboout grade 17 and 18 immeditely to the right of The Idle Rich, then did that climb which has 2 new bolts in addition to the piton and carrot. The bolted routes were quite fun with interesting dyke like holds and large slopy D cup size protrusions and its really nice not following chalk!. I top roped the 23 next to the Idle Rich and it was great up a thin seam, but rather mossy and protection apart from 2 carrots in 25 metres seemed poor. Last time I was here I had scared myself leading Pork Orgy with a long ground fall zone potential and didnt fancy reliving the experience. We then did another route on the large hangers next to the Nijinsky corner that led into a crack and up to anchors which was worthwhile.

On the way out we stopped at Gins leap but from the road it didnt look to good, and it was hot on the plains. It was clearly time for icecream.