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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Beta on Passport to Insanity? 23-Aug-2003 At 11:22:21 PM NMcKinnon

Message

Neil mentioned the epic had on Passport by our friends Adam and Dermet. This was the first serious aiding the boys had done - and the first time Dermet had used jumars. BIG MISTAKE. I went up there and climbed Quinkus Borba (sp??), grade 18 nearby, in a coupla hours. Then I spent the next 12 hours watching the epic unfold on Passport.

The Tyrolean is very easy to set-up by scrambling up the back of the main massif and lassooing the perfect bollard over on the passport pillar (Finding the scramble to the top is not so easy - takes maybe an hour). The Tyro requires about 20-25m of rope and some slings and trad gear.
Setting the Tyro after doing the climb would be trickier - as there is no firm bollard on the main cliff side to lassoo.
I highly recommend practice aid-cleaning an easier roof before embarking on this one.

It is a stunning piece of rock and a fantastic adventure climb.