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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Beta on Passport to Insanity? 19-Aug-2003 At 10:08:13 AM Onsight

Message

Previous beta:
…the situation is a bit complicated. The thing is that Passport may be a three pitch route in its entirety yet most only climb the first two. First pitch is about 50m, about grade 20, and the second pitch - with the big roof - is the business part at 26 or 27ish, though maybe you're planning to aid that? Anyway, the second pitch finished on a big ledge just above the roof. I guess most people trying to free climb it don't bother with the third pitch as it's not the issue (I don't know how hard but assume it's easier than the first pitch). And as you can see it only creates hassles getting off - certainly it could be a real hassle for someone to try and follow the roof. So most climbers I know have done it by reversing the roof moves, after leading it, to clean the gear out, and then they just all rap down the first pitch. Pretty easy given you'd be using double ropes - and I think the anchors are good at the end of first pitch (don't think this is the manky bolt referred to as you'll never get back in under the roof - to this belay - if you've both climbed up to the ledge).

My experience of Passport is different to a climbers; I've gone in from the top both times I've photographed it. It can be tricky finding the way up (and down - especially if you haven't come up that way) and yes, you have to set up this crazy Tyrolean traverse to get across the void to the summit block. I don't know what it'd be like setting up the Tyrolean if you've come the other way (up the route) but assume it'd be OK. All this could take awhile so make sure you give yourselves heaps of daylight to get across the Tyrolean and find the way off the top of the mountain (I know that's not quite the right word - but the point is it's tricky finding the right way - indeed I'd say impossible in the dark and especially without a head torch and not knowing where you're going). Guess that's why they mention abseiling off. I don't know where they suggesting you rap but I'd have though it an OK option especially if something is set up for it; maybe take some extra slings for putting around bollards, and be prepared to sacrifice a few nuts to back up any dodgy anchors. At least you should be able to find a way down this way.

Don't underestimate it - it's an adventurous place; but very special.