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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Institutional Racism in American Climbing |
4-Apr-2011 At 5:03:38 AM |
Olbert
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Message |
On 2/04/2011 Ben_E wrote:
>On 2/04/2011 RNM wrote:
>>It is completely retarded, and quite scary. Like so many things in the
>>States, I think it comes down to "that is just the way we do it"... suggesting
>>another possibilty usually results in a blank stare.
>
>So nothing at all like the preponderance of manky and often badly placed
>carrots in some areas of Oz, then?
>
>(Preemptive edit: Not arguing against the use of carrots or for the use
>of expansion bolts in soft stone here - just pointing out that every area
>has historic quirks that don't endear themselves to outsiders or make safety
>"sense" - the U.S. isn't unique there).
>
>As far as the ground-up ethic goes, I don't want to defend the position
>of every bolt that has ever been placed on lead in the U.S.. It can also
>be taken a bit far (a la the recent witch hunt over Doug Robinson and Sean
>Jones' partially rap bolted climb on the back of Half Dome). That said,
>in my experience (all Californian, admittedly) most bolt placements did
>not seem to be worse than those I've come across here in Australia.
>
>Also, where climbs were dangerously run out due to having been bolted
>on lead this was generally widely known and you knew to stay off the climb
>unless/until you could climb very comfortably at the grade. And there's
>no way the history of climbing in the U.S. would be as rich if rap bolting/pre-inspecting
>etc had been more prevalent.
Ground up bolting makes for epic adventurous badly bolted climbing - ie bolts where they could be placed rather than where they are needed.
Rap bolting makes for less epic and adventurous well bolted climbing - ie bolts are placed where they are needed not where the FA could stop and place.
As long as people know this is the decision they are making when pushing for a 'ground up ethic' then I think thats ok. |
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