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General Climbing Discussion

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Hardest Oz Solos? 10-May-2004 At 9:35:00 PM vwills

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Like Neil says, I reckon you have to be in the mood for soloing. Some days you are relaxed and confident with 100% focus on the climb and it all comes together. It feels great but you have to be totally in control of your mind. You have to know you won't fall and if you start to sketch you should get out of there.
I solo well below my on sight level, only on rock I trust and I guess when I am soloing I tend to prefer slabby and vertical to overhung routes, and corners to aretes. I know far better climbers than me have died on easy solo routes when holds have broken and this I think is the major risk. I'd be reluctant to climb a new solo route on Sydney sandstone for instance. Often I find getting down the worst part of the whole experience. Recently I climbed the first Flatiron in Colorado- 330 metres of airy slabby exposure to about Grade 13, felt great to the top and then had about a 70 m Grade 9 downclimb with spots of rain which wasn't so pleasant.
IMHO being able to focus the mind in soloing situations is great training for run out climbs and mountaineering routes when there isn't a protection option always at your feet.
I don't see the point of working a hard route on lead or toprope to solo it.
A question- where does bouldering stop and soloing start?