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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Trashing Tassie ... it's beyond salvation 20-Mar-2011 At 12:02:39 PM crazyjohn
Message
On 20/03/2011 jesus wrote:
...
>Lets split that into WHATS being bolted and HOW its being bolted ...
>
>Free Route on the Totem Pole gets the thumbs up , eg ...
>
>Parkyns 20 bolt desecration of Sky Rocket ... and ... all the stuff
>Winston referred to ... get the thumbs down , eg ...

Im not sure about you but I have actually climbed these routes. Inflagrente is well bolted. Ive climbed it and sky rocket at least half dozen times and the bolts in inflagrente are not even close. I have never even heard of anyone bitching about this. It must be from WAAAAAY back in the day. Now Neon God is a different story, but again that was already bitched about(with saphire rose) and I think for good reason. But these are exceptions that prove the rule that "the vast majority of bolted climbs in Tasmania are well concieved and well bolted".

As far as the Totem pole original route 1st pitch by Monks? Its shit. If you mean the deep play variant, perhaps it was a well bolted route, except it has been recently REBOLTED with thanks from 1st ascent. I think your out of the loop.



>No connection what so eva ...
>
>My two carrot-bolt ADVENTURE route at western Ben is in existence to show
>that this common sense and RESPECTFULL route fits in perfectly with the
>REALITY of Tasmanian National Parks ( which does not necessarily equate
>with ' wilderness ') and U. s. & A . advanced rationality ...
>
>... NOT fitting in with Gerry's ' once were warriors ... now are wankers
>' hypocricy ...

There is no hypocricy in wanting to keep an area like Ben Lomond bolt free. There never were bolted routes so having an area where you can just go for it ground up is awesome! This is such a boring argument because YOU PROBABLY DONT EVEN CLIMB!
>National Parks at Freycinet are perfectly happy with bolting there ...
This is bullshit. They are not "perfectly happy". And please for the love of god, YOU IDIOT, DO NOT go talking to parks about bolts in the park. This is moving from 'slightly amusing' thought experiment into what could actually screw up climbing.

>If your REALLY choking on your cornflakes over this ...then chat with
>Roger about his advice to Tas new routers...
>
>>>>Wilderness crags with no previous climbing : If you're the first to
>climb at any cliff >>>then climbers aren't going to complain about placeing
>fixed anchors.
Roger has funny thoughts on bolting. Everyone knows it. Although he pissed off alot of beard strokers back in the day, time has shown him to have good common sense. Even though he would bolt everything, he hasnt really.


>The day Gerry removes Fantinis tube chocks ... is the day I ...consider
>... taking a shifter to the two carrot-bolts at western Ben ...
again, have you even climbed anything your bitching about? One of those tubes in Fantinis is mine from the last time I climbed it. If anyone is interested, it was the old tube from Layback and Think of England. Some boys from Tassie bootied it and gave it to me by luck before I went up Fanitinis, and there it is still. So again, Mr. Veteran. You are out of the loop. At least even the internet loop you live in, if you even climb at all, which I doubt.

I would take you seriously if I knew who you were.. But since you know so little about what your talking about, I dont really care anymore. Good day sir.

There are 306 replies to this topic.

 

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