I think everyone goes through the stages of getting to a specific level, and then trying to bumble their way up higher rated climbs and failing/become very frustrated.
I found what worked best for me is to drop down a few levels and concentrate on my technique. Strength can only get you so far before lack of technique becomes obvious.
Try joining a local indoor climbing center, and carve laps on the climbs you find technically most challenging. Once you get to the top, try down climb them. Down climbing can be at times a lot more difficult, as you rely more on technique than strength imo.
Build up your cardio, and you will find you wont get pumped as quickly. Pace yourself, warm up, climb some easier climbs and then move on to a couple of the harder ones, then fall back on the easier ones. The easier climbs will then start to feel a lot harder as you will be a lot more tired. Only hold each hold hard enough to not fall, and dont over grip the holds. Climb with your legs if you can. Legs are a lot stronger than your arms.
If you do the above, not only will you get fitter, when you get back to climbing outside, you will find that you can climb stronger, longer and 'easier' as a result of improved technique.
Indoor gyms are great for 'training' but outdoor climbing is where all the fun is. |