Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

CWP Interview 8-Mar-2011 At 5:07:25 PM crazyjohn

Message

On 6/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>On 6/03/2011 crazyjohn wrote:
>
>>
>>The reality is that most of the climbers who "siege" routes and tick
>hard
>>numbers

>Bollocks! There are some climbers seiging hard routes who can show us
>all up on any style route going. I know Mayan for example is totally capable
>on a whole range of stuff. There are also loads who can't climb shît once
>you get them of sport climbs and face holds. Although, if they wandered
>out and learnt how to, they'd probably be way better climbers for it.
>There's a reason why any 28 in the Glen gets way more ascents than Ozy
>or Passport for example. And it's not just convenience, I'd suggest the
>Ogive suffers the same lack of attention despite being single pitch, well
>protected and 10 minutes from the car. Most of the hard routes at the Mt
>also see little attention.

Yeah, maybe your right about some climbers. Maybe even most. Im not talking about the "average" climber here. Im talking about climbers who siege routes AND climb hard. Somehow redpointing hard routes got lumped into the same category as CWP's effort to want to get sponsorship/comp money and linking that with pushing the climbing difficulty grade. If most climbers that siege routes cant climb shit, well thats a comment on most people that climb. Alot of shit climbers do alot of things, who cares? Climbers in Australia that are PUTTING UP the hardest climbs(almost always by sieging) also onsight hard, etc. So if you know a bunch of wanker sport climbers who only spend their time outdoors toproping (relatively) hard routes to claim that grade, thats just some people you know. The hard climbers who spend HEAPS of time sieging a route, for say a new 32, also are hard onsighting, etc. Mayan for one obvious example.

I already made the main point earlier. ODH, and I guess you now Wendy, are trying to have a go at "siegers" for some reason. But surely youve had a project. Currently, you are talking about sieging Passport in this thread! So what EXACTLY are you complaining about? If your having a go at hard climbers sieging routes to push grades, its kind of hypocritical. Also, what is the point of this conversation? If people want to siege, who cares? Does it really effect the rest of climbing? If you want to start talking about top roping(sieging) first ascents vs. always going ground on new routes, that is interesting. But its a given in Oz to toprope FA's and repeats and also to do repeats(and even FAs!) with gear in situ. If you accept all these hangdog tactics, you cant then say "Hes a worse hangdogger then me!".

If CWP gets his wish and more money goes into comps/sponsorship it can not possibly have a negative effect on climbing. Regardless of ODH's ridiculous fantasy of climbs being overrun by the flood of new climbers from comps, the only things it might do is, like CWP said, get people climbing harder in Oz.

Complaining that sponsorred climbers looking for money are going to overrun the crag is idiocy, but what about GUIDES who take swarms of school kids up routes for money? It is totally hypocritical to bag out climbers seeking sponsor money who may or may not effect the traffic at the crag when guides do it all the time... Kind of funny the same people having a go at CWP have guided for years and dont have a problem jamming the cliff with a bunch of kids.

:)

>>Girls DO come out of comp climbing to Araps. Im speaking from experience,
>dude if you know what I mean... ;)
>
>What, maybe 1% of girls getting out to araps got there via comps? It just
>happens to be that you've picked up some large percentage of that 1%?