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General Climbing Discussion

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Testpieces at the grade 29-Apr-2004 At 12:06:46 PM hex-TROLL

Message

On 14/07/2003 A.K. Dancer wrote:
>i remember reading an old guide book way back when i first went to arapiles
>and it had a list of climbs that were supposed to be definitive at the
>grade. much later the guidebook to djurite came out and as i recall almost
>all the climbs on that definitve list were regraded (any guesses as to
>which direction?!). for a long time this book held some sway over people's
>idea over what grades were what, particularly during the time of the climbing
>explosion of the late nineties where a lot of beginners went to araps and
>learnt about the grading system. i reckon we are still suffering from
>the hangover of that horrible little book. victoria has a reputation for
>soft grading and a lot of people seem to have no idea of true grades, and
>are content to believe their guidebooks like george dubbya believes his
>bible!! what silliness!!
>
>anyways, some climbs I think are somewhat definitive:
>
>9 Conifer Crack (all the way to the top of the spire mind you)
>10 Threadneedle
>11 Mixed climb
>12 Bard (the whole thing is great, what kind of drugs are you guys on?)
>13 Muldoon
>14 Trident
>15 Debutante (cos i couldn't think of a real 15 and most people are now
>calling this 15)
>16 Watchtower Crack (brolga is too slabby)
>17 Diane (the way it normally gets done)
>18 Simpleton (i've already included half of the skink experience)
>19 Wall of the Afternoon Sun (an arbitrary choice after much deliberation)
>20 Gollum (cos its not really that hard and the runout is above bomber
>cams and a clean fall)
>21 Pathos (absolutely spot on the grade)
>22 The Last Act (OMFG!)
>23 Sandanista (cos i don't sport climb, anything pumpy is hard)
>
>well thats my quick pick!!

My 'alter-ego' ? suggests using this thread , BA...