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General Climbing Discussion

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Screw gate or don't bother ? 19-Nov-2010 At 8:51:44 PM southcol

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In the uk years ago I was always told to use a screwgate on the first bolt when sport climbing (mainly due to the classic climbers handbook by Hamish McInnes) Lycra clothing was also an important factor in sport climbing. So, dressed in Ronhills, I used to clip the first bolt with a screwgate and then soon after get to the second bolt and clip with a draw. Most of the time I used to think, if the second draw uncliped it would be a grounder, I think thats the case in a majority of climbs ? even the third clip in some.
Interestingly, the first piece of trad gear never deserved a screwgate. The only time I have personally experienced self unclipping was ice climbing and trying to save weight by clipping a single wire gate into a BD express screw, 2 in a row unclipped easily with minimal sidewards movement..