Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 13-Apr-2004 At 5:15:22 PM Damietta

Message

On 13/04/2004 Phil S wrote:
>We don't need to extend our grading system!
> We've got words: route descriptions and heresay.
> We've got eyes: we can stand beneith a route and recognise that there
>might not be any gear between there and there, or that there is gear but
>there's also a blank section a long way above it.
> We've got emotions: if the thought of being up there is horrific, perhaps
>another day would be better.
>
>The old cliche is worth remembering: We don't conquor rock climbs - we
>simply meet their demands, or not. It is not our right to feel safe on
>a climb, or to have the experience that we feel was somehow due to us.
>When we leave the ground we leave our confort zone, that's the whole point.
>It's supposed to be confronting. The uncertainty is the best part.
>
>The point I'm not really making is that Australian climbing is perfect
>just the way it is. It will continue to evolve with us. But we must protect
>it from lowest common denominator

Following that line of argument - you would prefer to do away with the grading system all together. The Oz grading system is obviously flawed, and there are better alternatives, nothing any of you have presented above negates my argument. The quality of and information provided by grading system can only add to the experience, not detract.

The point is, if you are going to vehermently oppose retro-bolting of 70's deathroutes, perhaps modify the grading system so that these routes receive the objective respect (fear) they deserve, so that Phil's "lowest common denominators" stay off them.

And BTW, the common denominator = a simple number ie simple numerical grading system?