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Anchor testing (PV)-commercial climbing sites Vic 19-Jul-2010 At 10:07:54 AM cruze

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On 20/03/2010 Access T wrote:
>
>OUTCOMES
>
>In all of the areas marked for testing, there are a variety of anchors.
>Some such as Werribee Gorge have bollards installed by PV, others at Staughton
>Vale have some anchors that have been professionally installed using the
>EN 959 standard already. There was little concern that these would fail.
> The main concern was for the anchors at the You Yangs sites. Predominantly
>carrots, their history is unknown – bash in, glue in, many are very old.
>They don’t conform in a number of ways to the EN standard. The other added
>concern with testing carrots is that while many may pass the pull test,
>there is the chance that the bolt placement can be comprised by the test
>and there is no way of knowing. Big Rock anchors were tested – most passed
>but a few failed with very low loads.
>
>Original procedure was to test the anchors. What failed would be removed
>and then placed under review for replacement. Since the testing began
>and along with the feedback from everyone and further discussions with
>Vertigo, PV under advice, will now only test the anchors that are not carrots.
>Due to the concerns of compromising the integrity of the carrot anchors,
>these will not be tested. All the anchors that are carrots and were due
>to be tested in the commercial group sites will be removed and replaced.
>They will be replaced with Petzl Batínox http://www.petzl.com/en/pro/rock-and-concrete-anc
>ors/batinox These are large solid rings, conforming to the EN959 standard.
> They will be glued in, using adhesive that conforms to the standards set
>by Petzl for best practice for that product. These are also the rings that
>are used at the top of many European cliffs.
>
>In order for the commercial groups to know the anchors that have been
>tested in the commercial site, they will be tagged. I have been informed
>that this will be a small plaque that will be glued to the rock close to
>the anchor. For employees of the commercial groups, they will be able to
>identify them easily. As far as ongoing maintenance, at this stage, the
>advice is a visual test yearly and five yearly physical test.
>My apologies for stating incorrectly that the test will not be made public.
>They will be – the plaques being evidence of this.
>
>TIMEFRAME
>
>The two anchors that failed at Big Rock will be replaced next week. The
>rest of the carrot anchors – 32- will be removed and replaced in approximately
>5 weeks when hardware arrives.
>
>It was stressed that no other fixed protection at those sites or any
>other sites will be tested, removed or replaced. If commercial groups
>wish to engage in lead climbing, there or elsewhere in the parks the responsibility
>is theirs. They should be aware of the protection that is there and make
>the choice whether to use it or not. As noted, it is only when the only
>option for an anchor in a booked commercial site is a fixed one.
>
>THE ABOVE IS FOR COMMERCIAL GROUPS AND THE CLIMBING SITES THAT PV BOOK
>THEM INTO NAMELY:
>You Yangs – Big Rock
> Urinal Wall
> Gravel Pit Tor
> Nightfall Pinnacles
>Cathedral Ranges – Main Wall
> Sugarloaf Boulders
>Werribee Gorge
>Staughton Vale
>
>So, while many of you will still not be happy with the state of play,
>ie PV testing commercial climbing group sites, your concerns re the carrots
>compromised safety and loss of some anchors has been taken on board.
>
Was climbing at Gravel Pit Tor on saturday and noticed the two solid rings above the large buttress to the right of the silver night pinnacle. They were tagged (with a 13 phone number to report defects - which I thought mildly amusing - I would probably be calling 000, but anyway).

I am not sure who chose the location but I would suggest that they are pretty poorly placed. They were not angled for a particularly obvious rap line. Option 1 - rap down gully which we did resulting in stuck ropes in the high chockstones on the toss and retrieve owing to the reasonable breeze. Option 2 - rap down angling for Chucu chimney (sucky and probably more stuck rope potential). Option 3 - rap down main climbs (wasn't sure if rope would make it and the drag across the granite on the retrieve would probably have been horrendous). Option 4 - walk off. I will be taking Option 4 next time.

I hope whoever is installing/replacing bolts out there is considering location...