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General Climbing Discussion

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Lama on the Compressor Route 3-Jun-2010 At 11:50:26 AM cruze

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On 3/06/2010 Duncan wrote:
>http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-david-lama-compressor-bolts
>
>It's all good though, because he was trying to achieve his dream, am I
>right?

Learn to let go Duncan. Seriously, your replies in the thread about John and the 13 yo that summitted Everest, and the subsequent responses to your questioning (stating) that Everest is easy indicates that amongst us Chockstone posers you were in a minority.

This story does not support your position there. The only similarity between the two stories is the reaffirmation that ethics are bendable. Sometimes they bend to the point of a 13 yo being guided/supported up a mountain to chase his dreams (which has been done many many times to older people since Everest's FA), and on other occasions they are bent to the point of breaking by a publicity machine rolling right on over the ethics of one of the most elusive and sought after peaks in Mountaineering so that someone's dreams may detract from the dreams of many others. The Red Bull story provides a precedent, or at least supports a highly controversial precedent, for installing a lot of fixed gear on the mountain even where other opportunities for protection are present and leaving fixed ropes on a mountain between seasons with the possibility that the weather and motivation the following season will be favourable. Ethically, universally, that isn't cool.

BTW And please someone correct me or show me how ignorant I am, but from my brief experience with Patagonian South America (esp Arg) earlier this year, and from the 5 days I spent around El Chalten, I would be highly surprised if the Parks administration wouldn't accept a bit of money on the side for "allowing bolting"... Development down there is outta control.