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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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34? 1-Apr-2004 At 9:44:26 PM Onsight

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Mighty Mouse / Josh. Thanks. I’m happy to respect your opinion and disagree with you at the same time too. That makes for interesting debate. It’s a complicated issues and I expect there to be many different opinions on it. I don’t know what you think the facts are, so I can’t comment on that.

The point is it was a legit send, but when the holds were hammered off the route was changed — and so we have to assess this differently now. Whether it was the intention or not, now it’s effectively a route with an “enforced sequence”, or it’s now effectively a “made to fit route”, whatever you want to call it. You say it was “very irresponsible”; but my question is: do you consider it be ethically acceptable, or ethically unacceptable (when claiming an ascent of this type)?

You see, I’ve always seen climbing ethics, and the way our climbing achievements are assessed/credited, as being inexorably linked. For example, you can climb a route on top-rope and for sure you’ve climbed it, but that wouldn’t be a legitimate ascent in this context either (though it’d still be a great achievement of course).

Simon