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General Climbing Discussion

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New climbing gym in Western Sydney 10-Feb-2010 At 10:14:07 AM Mr Stu

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As someone who sets at St Peters (although only on the bouldering wall) I'll wade in now.

Unfortunately with the colours thing, holds fade (black becomes grey, red becomes pink etc) and there are differences with shades between manufacturers. Also, depending on the day there can often be only certain holds available to set with which can include a combination of the above and if there aren't enough different colours to create the route you'll have times when similar colours run close together and require taping. Presumably most people would rather have this than less routes up? Personally I like a bit of tape - Its used extensively in the US and often makes it easier to discern a particular colour once the top of the hold is covered in chalk. So I'm very sad to hear I won't be able to use it any more :(

Deliberately reachy moves to me is lazy setting. Including lots of micro footers that are unused by the tall, make little difference to the grade and can make all the difference to the average shortarse in giving them some options. This is much more like the real stuff, as lets face it, on the rock there are often many more foot options than hand options.

Most of us who set to take pride in our work and as far as I'm concerned, I've done a bad job if people don't like my problems (and my feelings get hurt....;) ) So this kind of feedback is always welcome.