Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

34? 12-Mar-2004 At 12:30:24 PM Onsight

Message

2) Implications?
First of all, you need to understand that the grade of 34 is just what has been claimed, it isn’t confirmed, in fact getting confirmation is now rather more problematic… Until the grade of this route — as well as Grey Area, Spartacus, and Flower Power (routes graded 33 but which may well be harder) — is confirmed, then I think any claims that MA is definately Australia’s “first 34” might possibly end up a little, well, premature. None of these routes have had enough repeat ascents (if any) for anyone to be really sure of their grades at this time.

And whether a taller climber using Ben’s sequence would have down-graded MA anyway, well, we don’t know at this time.

Secondly, you have to decide if chipping holds and enforcing sequences (made to fit routes) are generally accepted ethics. Sorry, no fence sitters on this one. It is either A) accepted, or, B) not accepted. If the answer is A, then that of course makes it a fine example that others can then turn to (if that’s what the climbing community wants). But if the answer is B, not acceptable, then, well, what do we make of that?

Here’s a hint: There are some pretty strong and interesting arguments to be had which kinda suggest that if it’s not an accept ethic, then the ascent isn’t valid, at least not technically. For sure Ben had made a valid ascent, and that lasted for a few weeks there, but now, as a result of what happened subsequently, well, he might as well as taken a hang on the fourth bolt.

Anyone want to go and tell Ben that? No, didn’t think so. However that is what some of the most highly respected climbers who I have spoken to about this issue have said (that the ascent now isn’t valid). And I agree. Of course none of us want to be the bearer of such bad news. Unfortunately though, someone has to stand up for the ethical standards of our sport, or they’ll be “chipped way”, so to speak. And furthermore, I think we owe it to ALL the other extremely strong and extremely talented climbers out there to point this stuff out, otherwise we simply aren’t being fair to them. Certainly Ben hasn’t been fair to them.

The sad thing is a great achievement has been tarnished by the FA’ionists own actions simply because some people (perhaps including some other climbers who might have encouraged or assisted in this) simply aren’t “up to speed” on climbing ethics and the implications thereof.

In conclusion, if I sound pissed-off by the chipping, I am. It’s bull-shit. So far the way this has been reported elsewhere is completely misleading. If I sound annoyed that it has caused me to waste my time, I am – I really am. I would much rather spend my time promoting the POSITIVE aspects of climbing. So if something positive can somehow come out of this then I will be relieved. If anyone out there thinks again before chipping of holds to enforce sequences, then that will be a good thing – both for the sport and for that climber. But please, don’t anyone try and tell me you’re advancing the standards of the sport, when simply, you’re not. I think most of us know better.

I’ve had my spray. Now let’s hear what you folks have to say about all this.

Simon Carter