General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Top belay to up force belay	2-Jun-2009 At 4:21:19 PM	Cranky
Message
On 2/06/2009 evanbb wrote: >My concern too was that in an anchor with one upforce piece the angle >from the top piece to the bottom piece would be close to 180, and so create >all sorts of dodgey force implications. So, I try to clip them separately >so there's some slack between the 2. Wouldn't the top pieces and the pottom piece be loaded independantly, depending on the force being up (belayer being pulled up), or down (the leader falling onto the belay)? The only time all pieces would be loaded together is when the force is in a horizontal plane at 90 degrees from the belayer (outwards or left/right)?

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