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Climbing in Tasmania 20-Feb-2004 At 5:22:05 PM oweng

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To read the story of the Devil Cancer try this link (warning contains some yukky photos).

http://www.dpiwe.tas.gov.au/inter.nsf/WebPages/LBUN-5QF86G?open

Hmm. not sure how id react to Devils chewing my climbing gear. Reminds me of Kea's in New Zealand, that I found amazing cute in a destructive kind of way, only happy when they are chewing on your car, tent, backpack, lunch, leg etc.

As for the Launceston climbing politics, when I was there I think the main issue was that Bob McMahon and Gerry Narcowitz had climbed on every bit of rock in the area, but had never published any details (apparently if you asked them they were more than happy to show you around, give info etc). This lead to several instances of other people placing bolts in what they though were new routes, but were infact old routes that they had now retro-bolted. The situation was basically that if you wanted to place a bolt, it was necessary to get in contact with Bob or Gerry, to get their personal assurance that the piece of rock you were looking at hadnt been climbed in the past. I think this was a unsatisfactory situation that led to some tension.

This is now being rectified by Bob and Gerry's excellent work in the production of great guidebooks to Cataract Gorge, North Esk, and South Esk. I also understand that they are producing their guide to the other crags of Northern Tassie (including Flinders Island) and to Ben Lomond.

There was also a time when placing bolts on certain cliffs was very much a no-no. This persists to this day (and hopefully for a while yet) on the Ben Lomond plateu.

Phil, one thing ive learned about climbing in tassie, never leave home without a jumper, beanie, and pair of gloves! (and multiple rolls of tape if your heading to Ben Lomond and are "blessed" with my jamming "abilities").