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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Definition of Onsight 27-Feb-2009 At 6:39:13 PM gremlin

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On 27/02/2009 harold wrote:
>The other day I did a climb where you could actually turn around and sit
>down just before the crux, which I took full advantage of, and still consider
>it an onsight.

I had this happen to me while i was belaying a chap while he was pushing his limits... While sitting on the ledge 30m up he took his shoes off, clipped em to some gear and rested for an hour out of sight without a single word or response to my yells of 'WTF ARE YOU DOING UP THERE?!', leaving me wondering if he'd fallen off, knocked himself out and i didn't notice due to the length of rope out and the drag, contemplating if i should initiate some sort of rescue or just wait some more... He eventually put his shoes back on began climbing through the crux and promptly fell off... biggest waste of an afternoon EVER!

The best one i've heard of, is a chap climbing on granite doing a first ascent, he fell off the crux and slid down the slab for 30 feet or something, managing to pull himself up just before he went over a bulge and weighted the rope (talk about a crap belayer!?). He got back up, busted through the crux and claimed the first free ascent. Names and places have been lost into the void of my foggy and beer soaked memory... Does falling without weighting the rope count?

On 27/02/2009 TND wrote:
> What's with all this macho-strut posturing, calling others fairies because you don't like the
> style in which they choose to climb? You shouldn't do it, it gives the impression that you
> have a complex about your penis size or some other inadequacy you perceive in yourself.

It's not about penis size, it's called the "beer and bullshit filter", perhaps yours is broken?

I don't mind being a pink pointing fairy myself sometimes in order to get used to doing certain moves without the rope above me, however i don't count them as an onsight or real ascents, merely pushing mental boundaries and training the mind. Knowing you can grab the draw when things turn pear shaped changes the whole mental aspect of being on the pointy end...