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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option

Votes

Graph

"You're not coming up without that piece!"

21%

"I'll abseil down myself - don't worry"

58%

"Don't worry, you can buy me a new one"

Lose a piece of gear every now & again, no stress

17%

I climb sport so this isn't a problem

I climb sport & still have this problem :p

I donated all my gear to the booty climb!

Topic Date User

Cleaning Ethics 5-Feb-2008 At 2:02:44 PM throwback

Message

>I often find the less than perfect placements easier to clean! ... ie
>marginal pro almost falls out. Heh, heh, heh.

Too true in the extreme case! I was thinking more about wires placements that don't have a great contact area so when you seat them they tend to bite more, or the over cammed/ unequal cam, the gear in the back of the crack etc.

>>So I guess what I'm saying is that good (safe, skilled) leading normally
>also equals easier cleaning for the second.
>
>As others have posted above there are a variety of reasons that this may
>not be the case. Others to add to the list would include height/reach of
>2nd vs leader; stance (ability of 2nd to use it); grade ... if the 2nd
>is on something way hard for them they are likely to leave the cleaning
>to you!

Sure, there are lots of reasons why the second might have trouble cleaning (or even climbing) a pitch, I don't think anyone would deny that. What I'm saying is that how and where a leader places pro can often make the seconds job a lot easier or harder and so 'good' leading bears this in mind. This is often only possible when the leader is climbing something well within their abilities, leading close to your limit you just want to get the gear in and the other niceties are forgotten!