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General Climbing Discussion

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Should you put climbs up for others? 29-Mar-2007 At 6:38:04 PM Ronny

Message

Phil and Neil,
The problem with this approach is that it assumes as 'the people that will jump on the route' people who are only comfortable at that grade when it is well protected.
That will not always be the case.

If we assume for a moment that there are some people who like climbing run out routes (I do - not always, but sometimes) then by ensuring that every route of grade x is protected for a "grade x leader" you deny to those that can physically climb harder, but enjoy the challenge of a run out route the option of doing them.

This is the reason that everyone should always put up routes in the way that they would like to climb them - that way there will be an appropriate diversity. Most routes will go up well protected, because most people like to climb them that way. But there will be some variation because there is some variation in how people who put the routes up like to climb.

Of course it may be that its entirely appropriate to ensure an access route is well protected - that's not my point. Just that things shouldn't *always* be bolted this way.

The only qualification is that if one's going to put fixed gear in it should be durable so that there won't be a need for more holes sooner than necessary.

James