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General Climbing Discussion

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bow line 29-Nov-2006 At 11:50:48 PM PensionerPower

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On 29/11/2006 simey wrote:

>If you still believe bowlines are the go for tying-in, then check out
>the latest Black Diamond catalogue (I think it was BD). There is a story
>about a guy who busted himself up pretty good after his bowline came undone.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/pdf/bd_s06_rock_catalog.pdf
page "36-37 (20 of 38)"

"For tying in, you don’t need to know anything other than the figure 8. Tied correctly, the “8” will never untie unexpectedly. While some complain about the 8 cinching tight after a few falls, it’s far preferable to a knot that can untie itself without warning - and if you’re too pumped to untie a knot, it’s time to find an easier project."

"Adam Abraham survived a 65-foot ground fall due to his bowline untying but his body did not fare well - left and right foot shattered, left and right ankle fractured, left fibula and right wrist broken, L3 vertebra disintegrated and L4 fractured. After seven surgeries, a cadaver’s vertebra, three rods, a plate and 19 screws, Miracle Boy continues to improve with remarkable strides."

Why take the risk?