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General Climbing Discussion

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Taipan 24-May-2006 At 6:03:42 PM cantcrimp

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You simply can't beat this sort of publicity!

mmm possibly... You never know with climbers these days.

For what its worth i feel that there is a line there. The climbing high up looks funky but it is guarded by some disjointed crap down low. It will never be a consumer classic and wont be the mid grade sport route some people wish for on taipan. It will probably go at around 24-25 from the looks of it.

Taipan doesn't need easy consumer classics. Part of the appeal of climbing on this wall is the fact that it is all hard. I would hope people look at it and get inspired and think 'wow i want to get strong and climb some of those mega classic lines' rather than climb some shite contrived line of bolts. Part of the joy of taipan is the fact that you can get away from the crowds in summerday and have a true epic in style. Too many bolts on that wall will detract from the other already established classics by offering potential escape routes, variations on the clips and basically just an eyesore when the numbers get too many. (Will painted his glue in rings and they stick out far worse than the metal ring next to them!)

I feel that it is better to work on the 'last great problems' on the wall rather than squeeze in mediocre crap. There is more than enough routes to keep most climbers happy for quite a while...

And spurt is not a part of taipan! Taipan is an amazing feature up there with the best cliffs in the world (along with the hole!) Big, challenging and orange! Spurt is a dirty, sandy pile of shit tucked underneath this fantastic feature (it does have a few good routes on it though...)