Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option

Votes

Graph

Never - I aim for maximum re-sale price.

Once or twice over my entire climbing career.

I rest on gear occasionally but have never fallen.

Rarely, however I have taken a fall onto trad gear

51%

Once every couple of climbing trips.

27%

Every climbing trip.

Almost every climb.

I love whipping onto RPs &zero cams on every climb

Topic Date User

How often do you fall onto your own trad gear? 17-Jan-2006 At 4:25:38 PM Andaroo

Message

Only had 1 fall on my own placements and fell 15metres to the ground when the undercammed TCU pulled out and I got zipped from the ground up, Luckily I had a sling around a tree, The rope should have stretched about 2.5m at which stage I was 1.5m from the ground.. Hurt lots but not injured.. I learnt alot from this, When sticking cams in cracks overcammed is way way better than not over cammed (for holding power.. (I had swapped a #3 for a #2 TCU cos I was worried my 2nd wouldnt be able to get it out.)) If you cant put a multi directional ground piece in have the belayer stand close to the wall (he was belaying from 4m away to reduce rockfall injuries) so when I pulled the top piece there ended up being lots of slack in the system..

When I did the outdoor leading course they made us climb up 30m with a #0 and #00 cam stuffed in a crack and the placements being about 2ft below our feet we where to jump off.. That was scary as hell but the pieces held without issue, Having lots of rope out made the impact force much lower too.

Since my fall I now aim to topout with as much gear stuffed in the wall as I can.

Someone wrote that they where concerned that they fell on an overcammed cam ?? I'm under the impression that overcammed is much better for holding power but obviously much harder to clean ??? any comments ?? If you look at the Metolious "range finder cams" you'll see the green section is pretty cammed up..

Cheers

Andrew