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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Araps Rebolting 21-Dec-2005 At 10:57:25 PM Onsight

Message

On 20/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>While I totally agree that
>shitty old bolts should be replaced by bomber (preferably stainless glue-in's)
Too right.

>and I absolutely applaud the time and dedication of the people doing the
>replacing,
Here here! It’s really important work and it’s a thankless job and I reckon it’s fantastic there are people prepared to do the work…

>it just seems like preserving a sense of history should also
>be considered.
Well maybe but…

On 21/12/2005 rodw wrote:
>Its a sad day when a bit of metal shoved in the rock in the dark ages
>is what makes the climb, rather than the climb itself…
EXACTLY!

On 21/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>I think it's an important point that re-equipping may be occuring under
>the guise of a community service when infact it is an inherently selfish
>act.
Now now Chris, fair suck of the sav bottle! I think that’s going a bit far!

Hey Chris (J) have you got any more examples of actually RETRO-bolting at Arapiles other than Mind Arthritis (and maybe Cassandra)? You guys seem to be basing pretty much your whole argument on like this one route. I climbed this route years ago and while the peg didn’t concern me I certainly don’t think it added anything to its “character”. If it has been replaced by a good bolt now - then, well, great! Anyway, I’d hardly call this a case of retro-bolting as obviously it was the intention of the first ascentionist to have some fixed gear around there anyway. Like we agreed at the start, the rebolting needs doing, it’s a lot of work, personally I’m happy for the people actually doing the work to exercise a bit of discretion over decisions like that.

I’ve spoken with at least some of the people doing the re-bolting and think they probably do consider these issues more than some of you are giving them credit for. My only gripe was rings not being fully recessed in the early days but that has changed now.

At least they are doing the work!