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General Climbing Discussion

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Araps Rebolting 21-Dec-2005 At 9:45:50 PM chris

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Re the rebolting of Mind arthritis....
apparently the final piece of gear, the peg, held body weight, but probably not a fall.

I have personally replaced some gear in the blue mtns, and it is quite surprising how hard it is to get out gear that appears to be "body weight only".
I would be very surprised if a true "body weight only" piece of gear could somehow survive 20 years in one of the most popular harder climbs at arapiles!! Surely it would have been ripped out years ago?

I would be interested to hear how simey and jonesy would replace such "body weight only" placements?
And who would volunteer to replace the gear every time someone took a fall and pulled it out?

I suppose you could just remove the gear entirely, but this changes the route dramatically. Climbers would no longer have the option of sitting on the gear if they got a bit scared or pumped. And realistically, it probably would have held a fall.... otherwise it wouldn't have been there anymore!