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General Climbing Discussion

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A1/M1 bolt ladders 12-Nov-2005 At 1:35:27 AM mrbumble

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remember there is a very BIG difference between a bolt ladder and a rivit ladder. I've never been more petrified than on a couple of pitches which would have been rated C1 apart from a few copperheads, and they were the BOMBER pieces on the 50 meter pitch......

That being said I learnt to aid on a bolt ladder. Multiple laps do get the systems dialled, which makes the difference between a massively epic ascent of a route like ozzy, and a minor epic on the same..... When it comes down to it, aid climbing reduces to your systems, and the better they are the faster you go. When locals up here talk about the times they take on the beerwah bolt route ( 4 bolted aid pitches, ~ 160 m) it is clear that practise on their systems would make a massive difference.

So i suppose what i'm trying to say is that one easily accessible bolt ladder is handy. But i wouldn't be putting one up at my local crag these days. A similar effect can be achieved on an easy (aid) crack, albeit slower, and with more practical application than a simple bolt ladder.

Don't get me started on the bat-hook vs rivit/A4 vs A4+++ debate

PS the nose has no real bolt ladders.... Well minus the last pitch, and a short ladder between texas and boot flakes... But if i'd reached i was short 30 meters on the first (grade VI - ie real) ascent of El cap i would have drilled through the night too.... Especially considering the finishes of the closest non modern routes are at least a good full pitch to the left or right, and there ain't much to nail around there.... The pitch before looks like one of the most enjoyable 20 meter grade 20 pitches in the world though.