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General Climbing Discussion

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What would you consider run out? 17-Oct-2005 At 10:19:36 AM dr_fil_good

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whenever a fall would expose me to any kind of danger - a three to four meter 'runout' is no hassle for me on an overhung climb provided the body positions don't put you in a situation where you may end up falling head first - however if I was two meters above my last bit of gear and there's bulges or ledges to hit on the way down I'd really call that run out ...

hairy situation yesterday actually - after an onsight attempt on a climb we were just going for our redpoint, I was belaying my mate up - there's a point where you are 2.5 meters above your last bit of gear in the middle of the crux and you have to clip for a dyno move to a nice jug - he got pumped and couldn't clip and went for the dyno anyway from a fat as layback position - missed the hold and went headfirst seven meters ('cause of the dyno he'd been about 3 meters above last piece + stretch) then smashed into the rocks using his ribs for protection!!! Needless to say it was a heartstopper for everyone on the crag ... running out isn't always fun - don't just think about what you are going to hit but how you could potentially fall as a result of the body positions you get yourself into :-S