Bit of an interesting question, that one... when belaying a second, I believe in almost all cases (at any rate, all cases I've come across) that it is best to belay directly off the anchor. Escapability (and comfort!) are the key words here. When belaying a leader, however, there is a very good case for belaying off your harness. Your weight is added to the belay, so that very little (if any) force is placed on the anchors in the case of a fall. |