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General Climbing Discussion

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to star or not to star? 3-Jun-2005 At 12:17:09 PM hairy1

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on the vcc trip to buffalo a couple of months ago I did compulsion. I then emailed Bill when i got back with a suggestion to modify the grade...'cause I thought - would someone who is at their limit leading 13 [even if they can jam] be able to lead this climb? no, was the conclusion i came to...It would be good for a laugh tho.

Actually it was good for a laugh... the reason i led it was because one of the other MUMC guys i was climbing with backed off.

to boost some ageing egos, it does seem that the climbers of old were pretty bloody hard - for example, the other weekend I attempted 'Beasts of Burden' at Bovine Wall. This was put up by Roland Pauligk at some stage in the early 70s i think. It had all the ingredients - sustained, technically difficult, a large loose block at the crux...i could go on.