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General Climbing Discussion

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Havachatwithhexy... 9-Mar-2005 At 11:10:25 PM Onsight

Message

On 9/03/2005 HEX wrote:
>While I recover from my nappy-rash, canya e?-talk to Lee and get the
>juice so we can practice our neo-cyber-preach ...

Happy to (at least try to) practice what I preach Hex. Funny how some grasp (vainly) for perceived inconsistencies in others rather than address the point that was being made. Fact is, I wasn't reporting the ascent but commenting on obvious problems with reports floating around. And that point (about Oz climbing reporting) remains. And sorry Hex, but I see no reason to hassle Lee about it, because, like I said, I spoke w him and got the impression he’d done it ‘free’ and given that I’m very confident he knows what this means we can pretty safely assume he’d have pulled his rope and at least done it in “pinkpoint” (what a stupid term) style. Personally I don’t really care if he took a hang and placed a bit more gear in the meantime, because 1) I’m not reporting this, and 2) I think even if he hypothetically had done that it would be pretty insignificant in the “scheme of things” (careful Hex, James might just have a point) and finally 3) all of what I have said above about this ascent is backed up by other reports and from what I’ve heard elsewhere anyway. It was free, continuous free, and beyond that I’m not really that concerned about the details – so long what we do hear is accurate.

Crikey Hex, I really trust you shout me a beer next time you see me – whoeveryouare – because you’re sure making me earn it!

Quick reminder of whatthef**kweretalkingabout ala Monkys…

On 9/03/2005 HEX wrote:
>Ben informs me the term we should be using is ' single-push '...
etc etc
Did Ben really send ya all that or have yar just been surfing to 8a.nu again Hex?
Anyway, I think that "news" item of Ben’s is a good example of what I was talking about.

>>Lee … has gone on to >make the first single push accent (and only
>second repeat!) of Ozymandais(29) at Mt >Buffallo.
"Single push" vis a vis "continuous free" - could yar kinda like "Please explain" that one Hex? Or Ben? Because I’d have though the ‘FREE’ bit was kinda like *significant*. Unless, of course, you want to hear all about my 1986 (or there abouts) aid ascent of Ozy Direct w Mike Law-Smith…

>Ozzy
Hang on a sec, are we talking about Ozy or Ozy DIRECT here? Because they are quite differnt propositions and Lee didn’t do Ozy free. We’re talking about the direct. In fact, to be really precise, we should be calling it Ozy Direct via the Free Eliminate Variant or something like that (guidebook not at hand) but no-one worries about that (cause it's understood).

>involves several >pitches
Yes, usually it’d be done free in eight.

> (300m+)
270m max I’d have thought.

> and the 29 is not too be taken lightly.
No, no, of course not. Whatever the grade the style is really fricken hard. However it’s actually 28 (according to both Steve and Lee, although I’ve tried some of the moves and wouldn’t be surprised if it were harder).

>Many of the pitches
>being , thin , dellicate and scary!
Now that’s probably true. I didn’t know Ben had actually been on the route.

>it will be recognised in history >as
>a very significant accent in Australian climbing well done cobba!!
Now this is very true indeed, speculation and opinion yes, but surely that’ll certainly be proven to be true. Well done indeed.

Like I’ve said, it the ascent is obviously a great achievement. The bollocks and exaggerations in the various “reportings” so far are unhelpful and quite unnecessary however. Let’s see if Rock can “get it right”.