Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Havachatwithhexy... 9-Mar-2005 At 7:13:49 PM Onsight

Message

On 9/03/2005 HEX wrote:
>1) Did Lee really do the first ' continuous ' ascent by yo-yo-ing the
>2nd pitch ...
Well Hex, as far as Lee’s excellent ascent is concerned… firstly I’m not really sure where you got the yo-yoing bit from? Perhaps you’ve inferred it from Eddy’s report:
>Lee took a fall on the 2nd (29 corner) pitch, returned to the bottom of the pitch, had a >short rest and then sent it clean.”
I think this just shows how we need to know the facts before we can really comment on them and the bits that come down to interpretation. However I can say this, I read (surely everyone should read) “sent it clean” these days as meaning a redpoint ascent - or at very least a “pinkpoint” ascent (personally I think the term “pinkpoint” is somewhat redundant but it does describe some styles of ascent reasonably well, such as it would in this case). Furthermore, I have spoken to Lee about his ascent and am pretty sure he did pull his ropes B4 the next shot. But frankly, I didn’t take a lot of notice of the exact details of what he said that he did on that pitch – simply because I am entirely confident that Lee understands a thing or two about free climbing ethics – and when he says he did it ‘free’ then it seems pretty obvious that’s what he did (ie, he would have pulled his rope and pink-pointed it at least).
On 9/03/2005 WM wrote:
>When first reading this I assumed Lee had pulled his ropes after lowering
>off - but there's a suggestion Lee yo-yoed it in the 'other' thread. EFP
>can you clarify?
>Either way, it was a 'continuous' ascent Hex!
These days it wouldn't even be considered 'free' if he had yo-yoed it (and so Will it can't really be either way - at least not as far as 'continuous free' ascent is concerned).

In summary Hex – it was a ‘continuous free’ ascent, and that was the style that was always going to be the next big step up in style. There’s still room for improvement, such as proper ground up or onsight even, but this was the biggy.

>2) Re : Deep Play : can you confirm that Steve actually did something
>more significant by unwittingly? freeing the Galagos Route , pitch 1 ...
More significant than what? Ozy? Um, don’t think so (and hence why the Pou’s copped comments about selecting the Tote as their objective). However I do think Steve (and Enga’s) Deep Play variant is significant in it’s own right AND because it’s nice little pre-cee-dent for retroing worthless aid routes for turning them into fantastic free routes…

>Full of antisssssssssssssssssssssipation ...
Hope ya didn’t pissssinyarpants in the meantime!