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General Climbing Discussion

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Australian Climbs with great Mythology 5-Feb-2005 At 1:31:03 PM oweng

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Great responces!

Of the routes raised, The Fear and Passport to Insanity both are definatly on the list of routes I have to do. Both fit perfectly with the theme in that they have prominent stories / articles associated with them, and will require a great deal of pscycing myself up for.

Wouldnt Balls Pyramid be awesome! An Australian route that would require expedition type planning! I was lucky enough to see the late great Rick White give a presentation about his solo ascent of Balls Pyramid, outstanding effort.

Hex raised a good one on his thread (come on hex, no need to confine yourself to one thread, you can come out and play if you promise to play nicely!), namely the Kangaroo Tail route on Ayres Rock / Ulauru. Although obviously this route wont be climbed anytime soon, im sure lots of climbers have glanced at this feature with longing as they walk the tourist lap of the big rock.

Superstu wrote:

"There is that route Japhilion at Coles Bay........"

Whilst I havent done Japhilion yet, ive done a 15 (phnises) and a 19 (griphon) that are just left and just right of that route. Phnises had one pitch 100m of the deck, with a questionable belay (wires in pieces of rock held into a flared crack by dirt), with a 25m runnout to a little bush growing out of blank granite, then another 25m runnout to the next belay. Thank god I was belaying! Grade 15 slabbing may not be that hard, and you may never fall off a grade 15 slab move, but by the same notion you never feel secure.

Ive heared Japhilion is better protected than many routes on the Hazards Main Wall, but is still run out by Tasmanian standards (where most people climb on bommer dolerite crack routes, and hence have a different definition of well protected than people who climb alot on granite).

The Queensland routes sound interesting too. Ive heared / read about the Mt Warning routes, but dont know much about the other routes. MOst people I know that have climbed in queensland have only really climbed at Frog, and I dont seem to have read much about cliffs in Queensland other than Frog. I used to hear stories about an anti-queensland bias in Rock, could they be true?