In the Sydney area:
The Fear 17. What a route. Sydney sandstone, the Harbour, the ocean, exposure, straightforward grades, interesting gear, cool route description ("fear and avarice"), FA by a Sinny classic new router, has seen fun, danger, death and closure. Glad I got in while the going was good. Worth risking a fine for.
Janicepts 21. I've never done it, but that's partly due to reputation. An old aid route by Ewbank, freed by Law, a crack, at a classic crag (Piddington), a great line. All the ingredients. On the must do list.
Clockwork Orange 20. Best gear route of the grade I've done. Interesting moves on P1, wild stemming on P2, funky difficulty on the 'easiest' pitch (P3). P2 is outrageous. Have never had a bad day on it (although doing a repeat in order to take a visiting climber up it on my wedding anniversary was prolly a little out of order given the day...)
The Mantleshelf 12. Consumer exposure. Mega history, climbed by Roots in the fifties, early ascents by Westren and the crew, say hello to the tourists, and then 200m of exposure, with big holds and straightup moves, all a three minute stroll from the carpark.
West Wall 13. As noted by Rod – a great route, also excellent for taking the touring climbers on.
Samson Gets a Number One is a sly one as well, generally overlooked by being so close to Bladderhozen (another classic of the region).
Fark we’re a spoiled bunch.
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