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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Speaking of grading 22-Sep-2004 At 8:18:42 PM vwills

Message

Ewbank/ whatever- its all very well but how do new routers out there actually decide on a grade for their new climb. Options I have seen or used are
1. Get a few people to go up it and take an average
2.Compare to existing climbs at the crag- "its easier than x (21) but harder than y (19)"
3. Compare to icon climbs with similar route characteristics- "its a meandering crack but a bit harder than Eternity.."
4.As per my Sunday climbing partner- if he does it first up its a 16, falls off once 18, takes a day 19, has to come back 20. He doesn't believe he can climb over grade 20 so is notorious for hard ticks (better than being soft)
5. Certain moves automatically score a grade eg deadpoint to a jug 20, dyno to a jug 22, deadpoint to a crimp 23 etc.
6. Guess
7. computerised random number generator

As an aside: How does a 190cm tall positive ape factor freak come up with a suitable grade?