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General Climbing Discussion

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Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades. 21-Mar-2018 At 9:40:08 AM armstp

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M9 is right about the style of climbing. The standard introductory routes to Mt Buffalo climbing in the mid 70s were the chimney cracks on the back of the Cathedral, The Mudshark, Calliope, Grunter. These are all long, unprotected grunts up narrow chimneys. We thought of them as fairly safe due to the security of being locked in a chimney. I note that these routes are listed but not described on the Crag site, and there are no registered ascents in recent times.

I was climbing with Rod Young at Buffalo in late 75. This was our very first climbing trip there and our very first route at Buffalo was a series of these chimneys linked together. Rod would have freed The Pinch not long after, possibly the next day. He had only started climbing regularly a few months earlier.