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General Climbing Discussion

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The technique critique thread. 27-Jul-2017 At 1:49:12 PM Grinder

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It's good to discuss these things, but I think I know what is going in the leader's head and it's pretty sound technique:

It's a long pitch with one dog-leg left after the crux and another back right, higher on the climb. The last thing he wants to do is create rope drag around the first overhang, especially on both ropes (The pieces are clipped on alternate ropes.) So he's gone a short draw on one rope and a longer sling on the other one as a back-up. (I am guessing he's made the assessment this would still keep him off the ground, otherwise there is no point in having it.) Having the long sling allows that rope to be pulled over to the left with less drag when he goes through the first dog-leg. The orange rope will stay on the right.

There are two good reasons for using double ropes; one is to be able to run them up different lines to avoid drag and the other is to give you the capability of clipping one rope while being belayed on the other. If you need to run different lines, you are going to defeat the purpose if you alternate short clips up the same line. If you want to avoid relying solely on one rope by backing up with the other, then you have to use a longer draw on the back-up rope to allow it to hold its line.

And yes, the bolts are irrelevant.