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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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How to turn back the clock?..... |
29-Apr-2017 At 9:40:14 AM |
Wendy
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Message |
On 28/04/2017 Grinder wrote:
>On 26/04/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>
>>
>>In Lemon Butter is one of those routes I often have a difficult experience
>>on - I struggle up the start and cruise the top or cruise the bottom
>and
>>die of terror on the top ... There are many 22s at the Mt I would lead
>>again before that one! You could try leading Crooked Mile to TR Hidden
>>Secrets or Brick Dust to TR Squeakeasy.
>
>At the risk of hijacking a distracted thread, I'd be interested in the
>other 22's you would repeat before In Lemon Butter, Wendy. (There's only
>one 22 on Garden Wall - ho ho).
The list could get quite long ... just at mt I assmue? I do Glory Rodent, White Heat and Copyright a lot but that probably reflects my preferred style - they do have plenty of gear though. I think Hidden Secrets is the most user friendly 22 at the Mt. I do Squeakeasy a fair bit, but it helps to know about the gear on the first hard bit (skip this if you don't want beta - there's a red alien in one of the shallow pockets and a 1 rock behind the hold out right). Straw Dogs. Starless and Bible Black, Wall St (not that this is user friendly, it's burly gas but has gear and I like it). I'd normally put Cecilia on the list, but I did get spanked by it this summer :( There'd be more if I thought about a bit longer.
Just to clarify some not-hidden, not-gems at 22 from the select guide - Furry Bathtubs is grotty, with poor rock and poor gear and Fingersmith is a mossy slab traverse with old carrots (unless anyone has thought it worth replacing them recently) |
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