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How to turn back the clock?..... 28-Apr-2017 At 6:49:46 AM Wendy

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On 27/04/2017 simey wrote:
>On 27/04/2017 Wendy wrote:
>
>>Hey, you publish books recommending shitty pox like Pixie's Delight -
>>it because i've climbed all this stuff that I can actually verify they
>>are shitty pox! Anyway, climbing all this mank still seem to have me
>climbing
>>close to as well as I ever have. Maybe I should list that as a training
>>strategy too.
>
>At no stage do we recommend Pixies Delight in our guide. Our guide is
>a Selected Guide and some routes are selected because they are near other
>routes and look vaguely interesting (but I accept they might be pox). The
>fact Pixies Delight received no stars would suggest this is a possibility.

Yep, but you put it in a select guide of 1400 routes - meaning you suggest it is better than the other 1400 plus routes at the mount. I can't believe you even thought it looked vaguely interesting. The 25 squished in before it looks more interesting.
>
>And if you were climbing all this mank and climbing better than ever before,
>then it might be worth listing as a training strategy. But given you aren't
>then it shows just what a waste of climbing time it is given the amount
>of quality routes you could be getting on.

Did you miss the bit where I have done all the routes sub 23 in your guide, including the pox ones? Many of them 20+ times. You can't really say I've prioritising mank over quality. Besides, as I keep saying, a surprising number of them are good. Not to mention there aren't queues and they aren't polished because few people know about them. Besides, I did onsight Coyne Crack and a few other 23-5s in the states last October and if I hadn't had an annoying summer of getting sick, getting fit, getting sick again, I would expect to be climbing as well as ever, so it really can't be such a bad training strategy. But I do think it's main value trainingwise is it keeps me climbing a lot and it gives me more things to onsight at a crag where I have done about 1100 of the routes.