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The Eyrie, Mt Boyce retrobolted! Badly... 2-Jan-2017 At 11:15:04 AM dazzz

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Although the arguments have mostly been covered, since there seems to be a search for consensus on this I'm adding my significant concern about this retro-bolting, and also a vote for removing these bolts.

Even granted different views on whether the bolts on The Eyrie are adequate, as others have mentioned it is alarming that such a classic route can be retro-bolted with little if any discussion of it first. Since there are lots of routes in the mountains of a similar era and style, if people just start 'fixing' these routes with retro-bolts - even with good intent - there is no end to how many classic routes might be bolted into a completely different experience overnight. Even removing the bolts now is likely to leave some nasty scars, which I think underscores the need to consult widely on this type of retro-bolting before placing any new bolts rather than after.

Personally, I've found the gear on The Eyrie exciting but adequate. Yet even at Mount Boyce alone there have been a number of relatively new all bolted, good quality routes that are fairly accessible (e.g. Wild is the Wind, 15), and some classic easier trad routes that are really well protected (e.g. Gently Mine, 14) - not to mention the routes available at nearby crags. So I don't think we need to be retro-bolting these classics in order for new climbers to have a 'safe' climbing experience. And surely there are also many new climbers who want a more adventurous experience for their early leads, so we also need to leave classic climbs on good rock for them.