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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

belaying seconds on a multipitch 13-Apr-2016 At 10:32:58 PM southcol

Message

On 11/04/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>If you have a grigri or reverso/guide device, you can belay off the anchor
>(LH shot). Otherwise with an ATC belay off harness and redirect rope through
>a high runner (this gives a lot of extra friction).
>
>
>
>It's easy to drop a second with an ATC (RH picture below), so please belay
>off harness and redirect the rope to the second through a high runner on
>the belay. This puts the ATC in the same position as it would be when belaying
>a leader (LH picture below), and maximises friction.
>
>

I would go for second top pic in yellow, but why only lower off one anchor point rather than the equalized point the belayer is connected to? or back up the lower off point to other points, especially for some trad anchor/directional set ups. Balance the load.