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General Climbing Discussion

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New Climbing Gym In Coburg 23-Jun-2015 At 5:14:31 PM peteclimbs

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>I agree with rodw on this one,I can't really see the point or really the pointy end of indoor leading.

I can't really see the pointy end of over-bolted outdoor routes either. For me, I lead in the gym because it allows me to climb steep stuff (try TRing the roof at Nunna), it gets me away from the hordes of top ropers and, as the routes get harder and the act of clipping becomes an additional difficultly in itself, it allows me to train that side of things well. Barrelling up a route on your limit on TR, blissfully ignorant of the need to find a stance, lock off, clip, proceed, repeat - well that's fine, but some of those elements are nice to train for both climber and belayer.

As for a wish list from the Coburg gym, in order of importance for me:

Space - Hardrock in the city is dangerous most evenings
Interesting and regularly reset routes
Sound proof cage for kids (a la Bayside)
Training/stretching area
Change rooms/toilets that aren't tiny and (often) feral