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Tick list for the fat and hairy 12-Aug-2014 At 8:43:37 AM sleake

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On 11/08/2014 Wendy wrote:
>On 11/08/2014 sleake wrote:
>>Hey all, trying to put together a tick list of ballripping routes for
>the
>>next year or so.
>>
>>Not just climbs, as I have plenty of those in my head - thunder crack,
>>solomon, integral crack at booromba, but killer, memorable lines.
>>
>>Would prefer choss to ringbolts, and if I get serious I reckon my paygrade
>>would top out at about 20.
>>
>>Here is my list in a vague grade order - but please add your thoughts
>>from anywhere in OZ, if you look at the list im sure you will get the
>idea.
>
>
>I'm not sure I do get the idea! How do these routes (other than the ones
>that are more choss than lines ...) differ from soloman etc?
>>
>>13 - Original route Mt Banks
>>17 - Lieben - Bungles
>>17 - Caucasous (sp?) corner - Bungles
>>17 - Angels fear to tread - Buff
>>18 - Flight of Pheonix - Bungles
>>18 - Knuckles - Wolgan
>>18 - Cactus - Wolgan
>>18 - Landslide chimmney - Doggie (bit scared of this one.......)
>>19 - Telstar - Blue mtns
>>20 - That Ewbank route in the southern highlands - giant corner - maby
>>Hercules??
>>20 - Something out of the Grose????? Suggestions?
>>21 - that corner Crack at Engineers Cascade - (cant remember its name)
>
>You mean Catch the Wind? Great route, but still not clear how it's a killer
>route (and knuckle, cactus, angels, telstar for that matter) and those
>first ones are not? I'm not saying these aren't great routes, they are,
>but what makes them different to Solomon etc? Or from Watchtower Crack,
>Oceanoid, Firebug or Clockwork Orange Corner? Maybe you should try Five
>Fingered Mary? Or Unearthed?
>
>Neil obviously understands something in your list, because I think he's
>listed a fair few more choss than lines too!
>
>I'd say anything that catches your eye at Stapylton, Rosea, Asses Ears,
>Mt Difficult or Moonarie (all of which you can eye off from the walk or
>the base) would be amazing. With more killer line than choss. You don't
>really need any particular recommendations beyond the guidebook and what
>you see - when you are competent and prepared for the usual potential rock/gear/routefindi
>g/descent dramas at least. I wouldn't say that to a new trad leader or
>someone pushing their limits! Buff is a little harder to check out before
>hand, but Maharjah and Sultan will still jump out at you driving up to
>the Cathedral, or there's Initiation and Status Quo. Ramadan and Rigadon
>were my favourite routes at Ben Lomand, and by the sounds of your taste
>for choss, you won't be as unimpressed as I was with the grotty access
>scramble and the weetbix last pitch or so.
>
>I wouldn't be rushing out of my way to do Ruby of India. There's maybe
>1 pitch of decent climbing in it. I'd just go to Frog where almost everything
>over 18 with stars is bloody fabulous. Except Peaches and Cream. Don't
>do it. I have no idea what drugs the guidebook authors were on. there's
>more than a few experiential "easy" routes as well.

All I mean is that there is always someone keen to go and climb cool, easy access classic shorter lines, and they get done by 'default' Watchtower Crack, Oceanoid, Firebug are all perfect examples. Same as a 'week at frog'. Sure, frog is amazing, but all begins to blur into a haze of mashed toes and bloody knuckles.

Just looking for great routes that might be a bit more obscure.

Thanks to everyone - I had no real idea of the treasures that the Gramps held for a pleb like me - never spent any real time there.

Cheers, Steve